Wednesday, January 3, 2007

Do as the emperor did

January 3, 2007
Did you know? "The 1st century Roman Emperor Tiberius was reportedly so fond of parsnips that he imported them from the Rhineland, ordering his cooks to boil them gently and serve them in honey nectar," John Peterson writes in "Farmer John's Cookbook." Parsnips have fallen from favor since Tibe's time. Like most root vegetables, they're not the most beautiful produce on the block.

"They may not be glamorous, but when cooked, they have the combined sweetness of a carrot along with an appealing parsley-like herbaceous quality and subtle nuttiness," Cathy Thomas writes in "Melissa's Great Book of Produce." Parsnips will form a sturdy base for stews and soups, casseroles and other winter-friendly dishes.

Storing tips: Refrigerate parsnips in a plastic bag in the crisper drawer; they'll keep a couple of weeks.

Preparation tips: Trim the ends and peel the parsnips. (Younger parsnips, which will be smaller and smoother, don't need peeling.) When cutting them, make uniform sizes so they'll finish cooking at the same time.

Cooking tips: Young parsnips can be grated into salads or sliced as crudites, Peterson writes. If you're of a mind to honor Tiberius, boil them in water or chicken broth, then add butter, salt and pepper. Fresh tarragon, minced orange zest or ground cinnamon are complementary flavors, Thomas writes.

Like any self-respecting root vegetable, parsnips are great roasted. "If you haven't tasted a properly roasted fresh parsnip, then you haven't tasted a parsnip," Andrea Chesman claims in "The Garden-Fresh Vegetable Cookbook." "Roasting brings out the hidden nutmeg and sweet nuances of parsnips." Just brush them with a little oil and roast them in a 400- to 425-degree oven until they're easily pierced with a fork.

"Bake sliced parsnips in a covered casserole with enough orange juice to barely cover them," add the authors of "The Moosewood Restaurant Kitchen Garden." "When the parsnips are almost tender, uncover so the juice thickens."

Chicago Tribune

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